After arriving in Uclulet, on the Pacific Rim side of Vancouver Island, British Columbia last night, we got up at 9am and started to get ready for a most wonderful adventure!
Getting Prepared and Transport
We arrived at Jamie’s Whaling Station at 11.30am and checked into the tour. We were given red ‘floating suits’, which we climbed into and put the gloves on that came with it into the pocket for later. We climbed on board a 12-seater Zodiac rubber inflatable speed boat and off we went. These boats are used by the Coast Guards and rescue services because of their agility and because it is impossible to turn these boats over, even on the roughest waves.
We got outside the harbour, the speed was raised to ‘excitement’ level in an instant and we arrived at the centre of a wide open sea with islands all around us! In a Zodiac, at full speed or at least as close to maximum, you literally feel like you are flying across the ocean! Sitting in a confined space, with complete strangers, you totally lose your inhibitions and just take in the whole experience. As a total novice of these vehicles, I was never scared as such; a bit apprehensive maybe, of a new test of one’s bravery and how high a level your adrenalin can be sent to. However, the whole experience was exhilarating and addictive - I was to be forever a fan of this boat.
The Wonder Begins
It would seem that the captain, a self taught naturalist, knew exactly where to go, as only 10 minutes had passed and there it was – A Grey Whale! – spray coming up out of its blowhole in a long ghost like plume up into the sky as it came out of the water and just rolled right back into the sea; you just got a glimpse of its body and heard its breath and then it was gone. It was about 100 yards away and we ‘flew’ over to greet it!
This Grey was definitely ‘friendly’ – he came over to our boat and started to literally play with us!
We were at the front of the boat, with four other fanatics behind. The Grey kept putting its tail out of the water and waved it at us. It sprayed us all as it came out of the depths, the smell of fish was so strong and the salt from its breath landed heavy on our lips. It disappeared for a short while – the next thing, it was under our boat. Its tail was to our right and its head was to our left – this 35 foot beauty was ‘loving’ the contact with us and the boat (apparently, it had done this with the early morning tour!). It seemed this creature had no bad feelings towards us humans, thank the heavens.
It continued to go under, around and past the boat. It came right up to us, submerged to our left! My friend was looking right into its eye, when it exhaled and sprayed its fishy, salty breath right into her face. A whale’s kiss, now that is a memory of substantial proportions.
This creature was just beautiful! Grey coloured, with yellow/gold barnacles scattered around its head, white patches here and there and spots on its belly. The tail was white on the underside and spotted, so when it threw its tail up you could see the different markings. These different characteristics have helped scientists in the identification of the species, their life and migration patterns and their conservation.
After it played with us, continuing to roll over, dive, breathe and spray us with its fishy breath, and show its tail, it disappeared! Going to find food no doubt? Grey whales are bottom feeders, meaning they scan the ocean floor in search of squid, fish and other fodder. They have long beaks, which are used for this purpose, making fishing easier and more practical for them.
‘Friendly’ Number two
After a good hour and a half, we started the engines, (you must have all engines off when close to any marine life, for their protection and to keep harassment to a minimum), and sped over to where the guide had seen another friendly. Two in one tour, surely no one could be this lucky?
This mammal (a mammal is like us – suckles its young and has to breathe air), maybe a brother or sister of the first whale, started to play with us too. Rolling over, lifting its fin up, as if it was waving to us, showing its tail, swimming under the boat and around it, and spraying us. At one stage, it came up on my side of the boat and I looked it straight in the eye – gorgeous. It was as if we had just greeted each other! I was speechless by such a life changing moment, totally in awe of this new friend. It was really checking me out, wondering what animal I was, what I was doing here in the middle of the ocean and why was I so interested in his kind? In answer – they are the most amazing creatures to behold. Truly inspiring and spiritual, making you assess your life and realising your passions. I hugged my friend in the middle of our inflatable! Tears welled up in my eyes and our excitement was contagious and overwhelming!
Back under the boat, spraying, rolling, playing. It came up again near me and I saw its whole huge, beaked mouth! I could not believe how big, but gentle this creature was. It must have been about 10 feet wide across its middle and it weighed 35 tons (1 ton per foot). And here it was, interested in us humans. This shows its intelligence and a whale’s total pleasure in interaction with other species.
It even lifted the boat a few times. It was underneath the back end and rubbed its back on the bottom making the boat ‘jump’ slightly. It never made us feel insecure and never threatened us.
It is just not in its nature. It was using the boat to scratch his back – Grey whales have many whale lice that grip onto their skin. These lice must irritate them so much, constantly itching and tormenting. Also, barnacles attach themselves to whales and they too must be a pest at times.
The Greys and Whaling
These animals can live for up to 60 years. Apparently, the two we saw were a lot younger, perhaps only about 35 years old. The older whales remember what man did to the species during the mass slaughter decades before and they tend to stay away. We did see two mature whales pass us further out to our right. They would not approach as they were truly not impressed by our presence. They must have horrific memories of our predecessors.
But this whale really wanted to be with us, as did the other one before it!
It’s a shame in a way because whales are becoming so trusting again and there was talk about re-starting whaling. This would be disastrous – the whales would disappear from this area and never re-visit to play – what a loss to us.
I never in my wildest dreams thought that I would be so lucky as to see a Grey whale in such close proximity. I felt so high, so emotional, but yet so calm. There was definitely a spiritual presence with these beings. I felt like I was at peace with everything.
Our guide, Scott, had a broom on the boat! We all wondered what on earth this could be for? This was used to rub the whales’ belly, of course it was (that’s how close it was happy to get!). The whale seemed to love the contact, another show of intelligence! Scott obviously enjoyed their company so much; his smile said it all as he tickled its tummy like it was a household pet and he was very knowledgeable and very passionate about these visitors!
What a Privilege
We spent hours with these two ‘friendlies’. I was expecting to see a tail, a spray of vapour here, an occasional body there as a whale appeared out of the water and then dived and vanished. But to see what I did! What a day! What an experience – a wonderful privilege beyond words.
Anita Johnson - I am 42 years old, married to Barry and I have a 10 month old boy named Howard! I have a large family - 3 brothers and two sisters (one ...
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